The Hoboken Compass by M.A. O'Brien The Cover The Compass Rose, drawn and designed in differing colors according to the tastes of the Captains has appeared in sea charts and maps since the 1300's. The term "rose" comes from the figure’s points, which some said resembled the petals of the flower. It was first called the wind rose, and the the 32 points of the compass came from the eight major winds, the eight half winds, and the sixteen quarter winds. For apprentice seacoast or river coast people to sail one had to read off, from memory, the names of the thirty two points of the compass. This was known as "boxing the compass" There was a symbol on the top pointing North, sometimes, as in Columbus' time a fleur-de-lei, and always a cross at the East, pointing it's way to Paradise. The compass, over centuries, became a symbol, pointing it's way toward knowledge of areas, and thus were land masses measured.

More historic seafaring and" landlubbing" tales involving our favorite city. Famous and infamous women, pirates and privateers, politicians, and sagas all from our own checkered past !               

In 1834, the entire population of Hoboken numbered six hundred people. By the year 1855, when our city secured it's official charter, the number was registered at 6000. The new city fathers and council had brought industry here, via the Colonnade Hotel, in Elysian Fields, (now Elysian Park) which brought tourists here from all over the country for the health benefits of the spring water, and the verdant pasture of the rolling. strolling green space. By the turn of the 1800's into the 1900's the Dutch farmers Windmill pumps, had given way to wind engines. The entire inventive Steven's family were making constant trips to London where "expositions" were displaying all the new inventions of both Europe and America. Some of their own, including the cast iron plow had already revolutionized farming nationwide here, and was well on it's way to fame in Europe. Gas engines and pump jack gear, electricity and indoor plumbing developed from the prototypes and sketches of thousands of patents. Hall of Flame Museums of Fire fighting boasted new pumps on the trucks, and Windmills be- came obsolete, with the exception of being placed accordingly as nostalgic garden ornaments. Diesel engines fueled Railroads, the military and industry.

 Steam rolled on! Royalty was admired and imitated by way of Queen Victoria who was ruling one third of the world, and "Victorian" dress and manners were imitated. Another century passed it's mark, and Captains of industry and invention were recorded into our history. Thousands upon thousands of the famous and not so famous invented and perfected the future of America and Europe. Most were un- remembered, and some were pirated and plagiarized, but progress still rolled forth. America was stressed from too much too fast, and desperately needed to relax. Along came prohibition, gangsterism, and the "Roaring Twenties!" Silent movies were improved upon and television emerged, first as an imperfect black and white radio impersonator, then fully. The beginnings of computers emerged with the magnificent Univac that took up a whole room and issued envelope sized cards marked with holes. Inventive machinery, tin cans, and drying revolutionized the food industry, and along came the World Wars, One and Two, with mentionable skirmishes in between. The pace of the entire world picked up and Franklin Delano Roosevelt promised a chicken in every pot and a car in every garage. Many people alive today have at least some memories of the middle of the century that passed. One example of the evolution of engines could hardly be forgotten in our generation. Sir Thomas Crapper, born in England in 1836 added his ideas to the Fairbanks Morse Eclipse Pump engine. It had a new technique. It flushed! World War One doughboys saw his last name and Morse on the back and gave it the nickname which we know so well. Queen Victoria had a few installed in her new Crystal Palace, but insisted on a pull chain, which became known as the Victorian Pull Chain .Since she financed the flushing mechanism that we still use today, she insisted that the pull chain be decorated with her own Victorian floral design.       and Sir Thomas Crapper's invention  ........... .

 She frequently left her black parasol in the "chamber room" or "water closet" as it came to be called. Some preferred the French word. (toillette). Morse got most of the credit but thousands of patents improved it, and most just remember it's convenience, not who invented it. Archaeologists have unearthed several from the Tang Dynasty in the Emperor's private bath and have dated them to 300 years before Christ, They were found to be most cleverly designed very close to what we use today. Queen Victoria, her forty grandchildren frequent visitors to the Crystal Palace became famous for leaving her familiar black parasol whenever she made a pit stop. These are now avidly collected as priceless antiques! This was a necessity as the tank was located topside near the ceiling, and splashed. One of the prerequisites of the coming slew of immigrants to our nation, was that the new tenements boasted a water closet on each floor, along with the dumbwaiters, gas lights, clothes lines and fire escapes that were accepted as new and innovative ideas, which preceded the greatest immigrant exodus to our country since the "Age of Discovery" of Columbus. There was Italian downtown Hoboken, and German uptown Hoboken, and then…an interest began to build by the immigrants of the early history of our town, and works by F. C. Koehler, a German immigrant began to appear in our written history on the Lenape.

 Lenape Legends and Beyond  Most archaeologists and other interested parties are familiar with the Woodland Natives and their stories. Volumes have been written and artifacts collected and avid collectors peruse volumes, and raid beach fronts and lake heads for arrowheads and bits of turquoise. A whole culture has flourished in the Southwest exhibiting Native jewelry with Turquoise and Silver and Squash Blossom necklaces and bracelets and earrings. It is a rare flea market that does not contain some of these articles, and a rare volume of local history that does not mention the sixteenth and seventeenth century decimation of our native citizenry. But rarely have the first recollections gone back to the ancestors of the same and how they arrived, and from where. The earliest recollection that can be found, and the beginning of the legend of the Lenape began with a creation lithograph, whose copies and drawings have decorated the pages of our history books, and will, in all probability, continue to do so well into the next century. Accordingly, the Creator, Kishelemukon, built the world on the back of a giant turtle, and created men and women from trees that grew on it's back. This is the first ever mention of the beliefs of the Lenape, before the missionaries from various churches arrived to teach otherwise. There were totems here in the Hudson Valley and carvings in tree trunks of masks. Clans were organized and individual animals were used to describe and define branches of tribes, which adopted that particular animal. Early burial fetishes found in bone yards and burial grounds uncovered carved Turtles, Wolves, Owls, etc. Prehistoric natives arrived here from Asia crossing the land bridge, and bringing, no doubt, some of their talents from before their history was recorded. After all, in Asia carvings of small animals were already prevalent. The cultures of China and the Oriental countries were more ancient and more civilized than ours, and already in place for centuries.

 Historians have traced the first stories told by the Lenape, who told "Grandfather and Grandmother Legends", and that the "Original People", which they liked to be called remembered their origins from some region of the Mississippi River Country, and had migrated eastward for forty years in search of a new life and freedom from oppression. This gave credence to the suggestions of early Moravian Missionaries in the 13th Century, who were reasonably sure that the Natives here were remnants of the Lost Tribes of Israel, as the spoken Lenape migration history bore a remarkable parallel to the story of Moses and his wanderings in the desert to find a permanent home for his tribe. When they arrived in the latter part of the13th Century, they had found a Chief named Hollow Man, who expressed his love of Our Hudson Valley, and had named it Scheyichbi, meaning the last place! Home! A few dozen warriors were settled here in 1396, and claimed by right of eminent domain, the surrounding area. The words passed to the Moravian missionaries were that Chief Wolomenap, or Hollow Man, had become involved in a turf war with his brother at the death of his father, and was banished, with some followers to find his freedom elsewhere. There was forty years of wandering, and the eventual occupation of the Delaware Valley, and then a permanent move into the Hudson Valley, close to the land where The Peacepipes could be made, (Hoboken), and the game could be plentiful (Minkakwa-Bayonne). The number of these ancestors of the Lenape were not recorded by the Moravians, but later in history, in 1648, the early pioneer settlers took a census, and counted several tribes and their differing totems in our area, numbering about two thousand in the Hudson Valley, and a total population, including the Delaware all the way to what is now Trenton, numbering eight thousand in all. Two decades of Moravian influence had neither Christianized nor Converted the Lenape, or other tribes.

 The Slovakian-German dialect was made up of mostly consonants, while the Lenape language, as it was then, was composed mostly of vowels. Hand signals and sign language did prevail, however, and there began a little trade. Several Doctrines of the Old German religion were extremely difficult for the Lenape to embrace. They could not accept that the Great Spirit could be contained inside a building (church) as the native church was the entire great outdoors. Moravian men were overemotional at prayer service, in church, and the native was quiet and respectful wherever he happened to be. The "greet the Dawn" ceremony especially offended the Moravians. The Grandfathers of the tribe, both living and deceased, were considered the protectors, or "keepers of the morning" and the arrival of the sun every day was a notable religious event. When the great gold orb rose it was greeted with loud cries of admiration, and was hailed as a perfect gift, to the people, from the Great Spirit. It was considered the base necessity of all things living. If a native wished to meditate upon a particular problem or dilemma, the greeting of the dawn ceremony at the shoreline was the proper place. The camp medicine man would wait to hear the loud shrieks of welcome, and would be sitting in his nearby birch bark covered sweat house, to sing and sometimes prophecy. His words would be taken most seriously and the verbal music provided the gossip, as well as the plans for daily living, for the tribe. The sweat lodge also served those who were ill or had additional problems for the medicine man to solve, via dream interpretation, and other assorted words of wisdom. Braves evolved a whole culture around the sweat lodge, and used it for ceremonies and to strengthen their bodies after a swim. We mirror this in our time with our saunas. The Moravians discouraged the worship of the sun, as idolatry, and did their best to ignore the medicine man. Their overzealous teachings resulted in their being replaced in less than two decades by the Quakers. The dress of both the Moravian and the Quaker was most similar, but that was where the similarity ended.

 The Quakers were far more liberal in their attitude and prayer life. Dawn was greeted reverently by both groups, who learned to pray together, at sunrise on the shoreline, and the medicine man was sought after for his advice concerning the people. Many decades of peaceful coexistence followed the Quaker influence, and conversions to Christianity, and interchanges of friendship were common. The Quakers did not choose to own or have first rights of any property or possession. They expressed a continuous belief that everything earthly and heavenward belonged to God. This concept was later corrupted by the Dutch, who demanded ownership of the land, and taxed the natives, at every opportunity. The Dutch introduced liquor and began building stills, at their arrival, which initially incensed and offended both the pure and clean bloodstreams of the natives, and the tea totaling Quakers. The Grandmothers, both living and deceased, were also honored by the native culture. They were considered "keepers of the afternoon" and all things pertinent to that time of day were placed in their charge. A few were given the title of "Name giver", and if respected, over time by their behavior concerning the rest of the tribe, could provide medicinal plants and herbs for healing. Many of these natural medicines are derivatives which are useful to us in our time. The natives were learning to make birch bark covered shelters, canoes and early baskets, and pottery. Bark was boiled and chewed, which made available pain reliever, made from a derivative of the white bark which we today know as Aspirin. Burial grounds were hallowed, and considered sacred places which held the ashes of the ancestors, and were placed accordingly. Our local Native burial place faces the" Minna Atn" (so that the Grandmothers and Grandfathers who walk beyond the stars could warn our local natives, in dreams and prophecy, of the enemy, the fierce "Manahattanics", as they crossed the river to war, or plunder. Much has not been recorded from this time in history, but verbal lessons left by the Lenape and other nomadic tribes have been written on the winds of time, and sought out and kept by writers..

 Whole volumes have been dedicated to the beautiful poetic prose that escaped from the mouths of the medicine men and chiefs of differing tribes.

 The words are both warnings and blessings. They are also environmental and personal, and can be utilized and understood most surreptitiously in our millennial era, perhaps providing a moment of peace, a thought or an idea, or at least a small sliver of respect for all the unrecorded history that has passed before us in the last two thousand years. "Be just, and deal kindly with all people, for the dead are not powerless. Dead, did I say, there is no death, only a change of worlds." Chief Seattle Over a hundred a fifty years ago, in December of 1854, Chief Seattle, considered to be the spokesperson for the entire remaining native population of our land, was invited to speak in the city that would soon honor him, by bearing his name. He gingerly and with dignity accepted the United States Governments reservation terms for his remaining people, but spoke a warning which still stands in our time.

 "There was a time when our people covered the land as the waves of a wind ruffled sea cover it's shell paved floor, but that time long since has passed away with the greatness of tribes that are now but a mournful memory." "To us the ashes of our ancestors are sacred and their resting place is hallowed ground. You wander far from the graves of your ancestors and seemingly without regret" "Our religion is the tradition of our ancestors, the dreams of our old men given them in solemn hours of the night by the Great Spirit, and the visions of our Sachems, and it is written in the hearts of our people" "Your dead cease to love you and the land of their nativity, as soon as they pass the portals of the tomb and wander away beyond the stars." "They are soon forgotten and never return". "Our dead never forget the beautiful world that gave them being." "Day and night cannot dwell together, but why should I mourn at the untimely fate of my people?" "Tribe follows tribe, and nation follows nation, like the waves of the sea". "It is the order of nature and regret is useless." "Your time of decay may be distant, but it will surely come, for even the white man whose God walked and talked with him as friend with friend, cannot be exempt from the common destiny." "We may be brothers, after all, we will see." Every part of this soil is sacred in the estimation of my people. Every hillside, every valley, every plain and grove has been hallowed by some sad or happy event in days long vanished." "And, when the last red man shall have perished, and the memory of my tribe shall have become a myth among the white men, these shores will swarm with the invisible dead of my tribe, and when your children's children think themselves alone in the field, the store, the shop, upon the highway, or in the silence of the pathless woods, they will not be alone. In all the earth there is no place dedicated to solitude. At night, when the streets of your cities and villages are silent and you think them deserted, they will throng with the returning hosts that once filled them and still love this beautiful land." "The white man will never be alone."

"Touching Leaves Woman"    Nora Thompson Dean  

  Our First historian who "saved' the Lenape Language and named most of the area surrounding us. Her story can be found in "Hoboken Captains, Fore and Aft" by the author, M.A. O'Brien. There were other women who gave myriad contributions to our Hoboken History. Among them, and not to be disincluded are the Steven's women.

 WOMEN IN THE FIRST CASTLE…… Book One: The Ladies of Castle Stevens "Per Aspera Ad Astra " "To the stars through striving"

 Grandmama Rachel, the wife of Colonel John, Mary and again Mary… Martha, the Matriarch, Caroline ,Julia and Emily, the descendent who kept the records of the rest .Rachel Stevens, The First Lady of Hoboken "from the Ladies of Castle Stevens" by M.A. O'Brien

Rachel First Liberty and History, and symbiotic chimes Ringing out the messages of patriotic times; A society Trenton Honeymoon, their fate and fortune soon to fix, She the wife of the New Jersey Treasurer in 1776, via Colonel John, the war passed on, and through husbandly intentions, she gave birth to thirteen children, between maritime inventions .Severely patriotic, an historic full addition; they had supplied the army free, with foundry ammunition. To blow away the clouds of war, their fortune nearly broken, she could not hide, stood by his side, their bankruptcy unspoken, while he 'borrowed" $90,000 for the purchase of HOBOKEN. They sat and mapped the city out to end financial fear, and designed the Plum silk livery carriage, which became a tradition here, the first patent law, the twin propeller, the Steamboat Juliana, and more great and fine inventions for our now AMERICANA. The picture of propriety, bred belle of high society, mistress of the Minuet, with not a thought of castle debt, a hostess of the Castle grazed on aristocratic ENGLISH ways, Iron willed patriot, matriarch maiden, who crowded the Castle with balls and laughter, BEQUEATHED all of her stalwart patriots genes to each of hers that followed after, Life's passing is said a shadow .Sweet Rachel, always exhibiting dignified reason, survived the MR. by a year and a season, and outlasted the first Master of Castle Stevens.

 Editor's Note.. Colonel John Stevens, the founder of both Hoboken and Steven's Institute of Technology was appointed the first Treasurer of New Jersey in 1776, for his donated ammunition from his foundry in New Jersey. His children became inventors in their own right. To Rachel and the ladies who actually resided in Castle Stevens. Their lives, their loves, their tragedies and accomplishments were downplayed. The ever present past, the climes and times of ladies liberation were far removed from life as we now know it! All husbands accomplishments were sensationalized, and the wife remained hidden, her intelligence and usefulness only discussed in private, to remain closeted in a very secretive and silent background position. Women were known as "the weaker sex" and at the first hint of either provocative or unauthorized conversation, a faint would be provoked, bringing a mincing servant quickly to the emergency with a bottle of smelling salts on an ornate silver tray. Doctors made secret and continuous house calls, and ailments with monosyllable titles became fashionable.

Women learned to be secretive and to hide her pregnancies from the world. She however was allowed a special place of recognition in the family Bible, third page or later, and was expected to endure with stoic determination, the sexual idiosyncrasies, and double standard accoutrements of her mate. Rarely was affection displayed in public, and never was any sign of intimacy conveyed before the servants or castle guests. Politics and religion were not to be discussed by women in public, as the men would withdraw to the dining room or library for such discussions. Cigars were passed and brandy consumed for such necessary and masculine business, and the ladies were trained to retire with apologies to the sewing or music room to gossip. Thus, conversation became an art form, and the first Matriarch of the Castle Stevens, who began the family here, Rachel Cox Stevens, gave birth in secret to the first of her thirteen children. Little is known of Rachel, but some facts did survive, and consist of a story here, a fact there, a snatch of conversation in a family album, or a family secret passed down by word of mouth of the servants. Rachel eventually bragged that she had thirteen children, one for each star on the flag. She was an independent creature and this book is dedicated to her. One family legend passed down is that she liked to dress as a boats man, row her way across the Hudson, and shop in New York City.

She was married on October 17th 1782 while the guns of our country's revolution were still roaring. She spent a half a century with the man she married commonly addressing him most formally in public as "Mr. Stevens." At critical moments in the passing of time, her sense of humor became legendary. One anecdote handed down in the family album was that she was awakened one morning by her husband drawing a new plan for an engine on her chest. He had sketched between her shoulders the new plan for a connecting rod and engine. As she awoke she was asked, by her new husband, "Do you know what figure I am making?" "Yes, " she answered sleepily, "the figure of a fool!" Another is that her husband had bought her matching pistols which it was said that she could shoot an eye out of a gnat at fifty paces, and at a hundred she was even better. The ornate pearl handled fifty five caliber pistols, hand made in Italy in 1690, were traced from the Stevens family ownership to Alexander Hamilton. The present whereabouts are unknown. Her charities involved Shakespearean plays, and "As you Like It" was given on the Castle grounds, with Maurice Barrymore, father of the famous Barrymore acting family taking the role of Orlando. Her Christmas Ball was a legendary event and the Major Domo of the occasion was her aged servant Peter Lee, whose parents and grandparents were slaves given their freedom by the laws of New Jersey.

 It was Peter's choice to remain all his life in the service of the Stevens family. At Christmas he attended the door dressed in full livery and greeted all guests arriving with a hearty "Merry Christmas". Rachel had the center of the Rotunda decorated with an enormous Christmas Tree, dressed by the women in the family with heirloom Victorian ornaments. The children were taken by way of a side hall to another room, on the East side of the house overlooking the river. When all was ready, Mrs. Stevens would throw open the doors and the first glimpse of the tree ablaze with candles from top to bottom would be viewed. Servants stood by with sponges attached to poles to be dipped into water should one of the candles become a hazard. On the tables which surrounded the Rotunda, were presents for everyone, including the servants. Peter Lee, the faithful retainer servant who refused to leave when he had his freedom lived to be 99 years old, and in accordance with the written wish of Rachel was buried with much pomp and ceremony in the Stevens Family Plot.(1901) He lies yet with the Ladies of Castle Stevens, to whom he was so devoted in life!

 Additional Ladies of Castle Stevens

 Most of our local culture is familiar with the story of Mary Picton Stevens. Much has been written of her and most residents know first hand that she was the daughter of a minister and was barely seventeen when she married the aging forty one year old inventor, Edwin. Her daughter, a fine Southern Belle, eventually was sequestered also in the castle, but returned to the south and the Ante Bellum culture, to marry another Southerner ( the grandson of George Washington)… (Custis) .which bred a descendent, another Mary, (which had now become an honored family traditional name.) Mary Custis Lee..The pre war climate of our nation consisted of elegance. Caped and gloved gentlemen, velvetted horse drawn carriages with foot men in livery, silver and pearlized dueling pistols and ornate swords dominated the landscape and patriotism for our nation reigned supreme. The south became a bejewelled mistress greedily awaiting more of everything Southern. Arm chair observers, political hacks and street corner prophets all predicted a coming war between the Industrial North and the cotton growing South. Clashes over slavery, ownership, prices of interchanged staples , and differing ways of life occurred with increasing frequency. The nation was split in two and readying for a war that would bring with it the near destruction of the entire South. Manhood rose to meet the needs of the military and great names were begotten to cross the military pages of history. Andrew Jackson, Jefferson Davis, and Robert E. Lee were only a few. Thus when Mary Custis, heiress of the lovely Arlington Virginia Estate accepted the hand of handsome second Lieutenant Robert E. Lee, the engagement was met by considerable opposition from her father. Lee, according to Custis had no inheritance, no land holdings, a doubtful military career ahead, as he was not politically favored nor connected. There were other choices that seemed more suitable! Custis also sensed a slight aura of tragedy about the suitor and did everything he possibly could to dissuade his daughter from marriage to this man. But Mary was so in love that she eventually outweighed all obstacles and the June wedding was one of pomp and circumstance, bedecked completely with flowers from her famous Rose Garden. War, pestilence, dishonor for her husband and tragedy accompanied every year of her marriage. She suffered through the heartbreak of the final years of the Confederacy which she loved.

 She gave her beloved estate willingly for a cemetery to the New Government, and even after Appomattox, she stood by her man, bravely waiting for her husband. Arlington House became occupied by Union Troops in 1861, and Mary was again displaced. Her beloved Rose Garden now contains the Rose Covered Monument of the tomb of the unknown dead from the Civil War. The vault contains the remains of two thousand and eleven soldiers. She was consistently displaced by war and pestilence and followed her husband to wherever he was needed. "I am a wanderer on the face of the earth", she said to friend shortly after her marriage to the General. She stood by her man. "Arlington, where my affection and attachments are more strongly placed than anywhere in the world", the General was heard to say, just before it was donated as a war memorial. "I could stay here forever, " spoke John F. Kennedy at Arlington House on November 11, 1963. It was said she kept her faith in the South, and one small clipping attended her picture in the family papers. It read, " the ladies in patched and tattered gingham, at the Arlington Plantation sewing room heard the sad message heralded by a slave that Lee was beginning to retreat". They cried, paused in silence, and the knitting needles began again.

 Time and history passed on, and there were other women in the Castle who added an immense character to our early Hoboken. Mary had passed and her daughter Mary attended Princeton. While she was at her studies, she befriended a young serving girl as a companion. Her name was Martha and from the first day this maid met the lonely widowed Stevens , there was an immediate attraction. Martha, May 15 1831 - April 1 1899 Good friend and companion of our Mary's living daughter A Cinderella servant girl from Princeton's Ivy Quarter Met the lonely widowed Stevens, impressed him with her worth, and bore him seven children whose inventions covered the earth. It Italy a tragedy, a daughter Death, as ever, plays it's part and all Hoboken mourned with Martha at the breaking of her heart. Yet, in her pain, she birthed a church: redemption in some sense, to glorify the Cherub souls of The Holy Innocents Her accomplishments were as many as HIS three score and ten and three in the shadow of her footsteps stayed the servant Peter Lee. Side by side they served Hoboken abolishing poverty, and side by side they rest in death, at the Hoboken Cemetery. Strange, it seems, her lifetime dreams among the human leavings, rest not beneath the headstones of dismantled Castle Stevens. But LIVE instead of those well read in the archives of the living. * More than five thousand people gathered to grieve at her funeral from the Church of The Holy Innocents, which she founded after the death of her daughter from Typhoid in Italy while traveling. She often mentioned that her favorite holiday was Easter and the egg hunts for Children and prizes offered were part and parcel of the Steven's personae. She departed this world on Easter Eve, 1899, and was buried by request, in a plain wicker basket, carried by the faithful men servants of the Castle. She was loved, and admired for the building of the Episcopal Church of the Holy Innocents, the Hoboken Industrial School, the Public Library and the founding of the town of Sea Bright, New Jersey. She was often seen on the streets of Hoboken, in her black dress of widowhood, spending her time and energy and fortune on the poor, orphaned and less fortunate . She was always accompanied by her faithful retainer, Peter Lee. Two years after her death, her faithful servant, the black slave, Peter Lee was buried in the family plot with "his" ladies.

 This was an unheard of act, in that time of history, and struck a worthy blow at the racism that was prevalent in then society. The present library at Steven's Institute of Technology contains some of the viewable collected albums and treasures of the family and the accomplishments of the succeeding generations. Several places in the building display many family inventions, some preserved in glass cases. There is an antique chime Grandfather Clock owned by Martha, adjacent to the treasure room which further accents our past parasol history and present prototypes of our now America. The gentle and touching sounds of Steven's chimes, which can be heard all over the grounds reawaken our Hoboken memories of Martha. The melody, her legacy, serves to press, guild and gold leaf our past pioneer steamboat Hoboken in the pages of our minds. Caroline November 21, 1859 December 4, 1932 Over time the green serpentine rock that Steven's had so cleverly built the Castle out of was crumbling, and the original building fell into disrepair. Funds were raised and it became a University for inventors and those associated studies. The gatehouse was saved and preserved as well as the treasure room and some parts of the old castle, but what did remain desperately needed some renovation.

The finest art, the vintage wine, were the trademark and treasure of Caroline Importing European Damask with crystal clear intentions, to restore the ancient Castle to it's former fine dimensions. Her massive contributions to women's evolution, no accident of birth, contributed academically, most immeasurably of worth Te Salumaris, the Wittpenn Walk, and Ivy covered walls, stand as her living monument, the ornamental halls. Ms. Wittpenn stood the forefront of Women's Liberation, and gentrified and purified inventor's education. Among the dusty archives her Presbyteric spirit soared into the everlasting arms of her ever loving Lord. Strange, it seems, her lifetime dreams, among the human leavings, live not upon the cornerstones of dismantled Castle Stevens. For education, change evolved in mortar and in rafter and  rests instead, of those well read and we who follow after. Caroline Bayard Stevens Wittpenn, Daughter of The American Revolution, Women's Rights Activist, and friend of the poor and of Edison, Calvin and Tyndall, President Wilson and Hoover. and of the Suffrage Movement for the Rights of Women to vote, lives on!

Emily 1915 - 1980 Nineteen Fifteen was the year of the socialite, and the upper crust and society news was "the rage" among the people. Prohibition and the wild and wooly "Roaring Twenties" was approaching. Speakeasies and crashing parties of royalty were becoming a national pastime and the music and the culture of the nation accompanied it. Stiff Victorian values were giving way to more personal and intimate living, as tenements were crowding with immigrants who sought a better life! Not all of the Stevens women lived to appreciate the gowns and balls and society page. One happily defected and spent her life away from the trappings of the very rich.

 June 26th 1948, the local society pages of the nation went wild with unexpected news. Thirty year old Emily Custis Lewis Stevens, blue blood descendent of George and Martha Washington, heiress and world traveler, although believed to be engaged to both a King of Yugoslavia and President Roosevelt's son, shocked the world by eloping with a hairdresser from Montclair over the July 4th weekend. The New York Times Society page went wild, and the local paparozzi chased the couple all over the world, continuously asking personal questions of the couple as to their income, their reason for avoiding the Stevens family, (neither parent attended the wedding) and attempting to question Emily's brother, who stood up for her with his friend, a World War 2 Bombadier. A small reception was held for Emily and her new husband, Jim Tully, at her best friend's home in North Bergen, from which they immediately took off to travel on a tour of the world. Basil M. Stevens and his wife were incensed. Their beautiful and talented daughter had made her debut the the River Club in 1934, and in attendance, had been her parents choices for her to meet and possibly wed. These included a prince, an ambassador, a minister to England, and the son of a President (Teddy Roosevelt), with whom she had scandalized her family by dancing a sensuous tango with, and making all of the society papers, to the chagrin of her conservative family.

 She had moved from her Castle Residence to a small house in Montclair, New Jersey, was living quietly and simply and was avoiding the haunts and habits of the very rich, issuing repeated statements of "no comment" whenever she was searched out by the media. She however, kept a family album and became the unofficial historian of the group, but kept it to herself. On rare occasions and only to a favored few would she take down the family album and discuss it's contents. 1915 - 1980 Emily Stevens Tully The upper crust gilded wallflowers at the River Cotillion Ball awaited their dancing card signatures, while lined up against the wall. Emily entered in Salmon silk with Emeralds on a Peacock shawl, adorned and tressed "historically" sans Martha Washington, and shock waved this high society by dancing a sensuous tango with President Roosevelt's son, this infuriated the "dahling" set, and press, and tagged her performance poor! All those "friends" and fame and fortune left her somehow insecure. She had laughed too loud, and drank too much, while bejewelled limb to limb, then dumped it all, the jewels, the ball for a "real nice guy named Jim". She, now disowned without a cent, he leased his business and off they went, touring Europe fall through June, an extended oversea Honeymoon. The ever chasing Papparozzi, always in hot pursuit readied to record her first regret at her obvious lack of loot. "Show us, show us your poverty," they all in unison cried. But Emily loved her hairdresser man, until the day she died. They dined with friends, ignored the rest, always most elegantly coiffed and dressed. They left no heirs, neither daughter nor son, she being the last titled "Castled" one, Yet their legacy of enjoying life, with always ready laughter, gave credence to the truism, "to Love forever after!" and added to the present existing historic reasons, to now contrive to keep alive, the Ladies of Castle Stevens. *Many relatives survive, all over the continental States and Europe. This book simply gives tribute to a few of the Ladies who actually lived for a time in the Castle. M.A. O'Brien

Hoboken Becomes a City

 Our new city was formed by business and civic leaders, clergy and educators, and is carrying on into the new century all of the attributes that it possessed from it's pioneer beginnings. Excerpt from the Act of Congress, New Jersey Legislature, March 28, 1855 "Be it enacted by the Senate and the State of New Jersey that the inhabitants of that part of the County of Hudson, beginning at a point in the middle of the Hudson River due East from the mouth of the Loss or Sluice Creek, thence running due West to the center of the said creek at it's mouth, thence along the center of the said creek and several courses thereof to the great bend in the same; thence down the center of the principal ditch to the West side of the lands of the late John G. Costey to the public road leading from North Bergen to Hoboken; from thence due South to the North line of Jersey City; thence alongside the North line of Jersey City Easterly to the mouth of the Eel Creek; thence to the middle of the Hudson River; thence North up to the middle of the Hudson River to the point of the beginning; be and are hereby constituted a body corporate and politic, in fact and in name, by the Mayor and common Council of the City of ''HOBOKEN" This is the exact copy with Hoboken in capitals (added) that is held by our government, state and local authorities. Accordingly, Hoboken OWNS Hoboken all the way to the middle of the Hudson River, and the rights of builders, developers, and other interested parties must be strained through the local city Council and Mayor before they are instituted. All the way to the center of the Hudson! Interesting information from the past! In order for the City to be Chartered, an Election had to be held.

 It was held on a Thursday and 583 worthy citizens voted. Three hundred and Thirty Seven were for the Charter and One Hundred and Eighty Five were opposed. An oyster and champagne Jollification accompanied the celebration by the politicians in charge, who were imbibing of so much celebration , that they adjourned the official meeting, after setting the 10th of April as the upcoming Election Day. It was officially set as the second Tuesday of the Month, and set a precedent for the future of elections! The Mayor, Council and Clerk were elected, and finally, official papers were filed, and officials hired, for pay. The raw pioneer homespun material had disappeared as had the original natives of this land, and in their places were top hats, and weskits (vests) and Gold Railroad watches for the men, and manners, bustles, parasols and Parisian gowns for the ladies! A lamplighter who candled the streetlights was hired, and the town crier was losing ground to the "The Jersey Blue", one of the first OFFICIAL Hoboken newspapers! This and more encapsulated the coming of progress to our Hoboken, in 1855!

The era of the paid politician had begun, manners and finishing schools for young ladies were the advance of education, and industry was invited to Hoboken. Ladies bloomers, factoried here, were all the way to the ankle, under crinolines and bustles, and high buttoned shoes tapped their way into the conscious fashion of the nation, as did zippers on pants for men. Cleavage however, remained where it was, on most occasions, and ladies fashion was about to be set on it's ear by the coming of the European 1892 Figure Skating Union. Animal bone blades had been tied to the feet of cave people as early as 10,000 B.C. An athlete named Jackson Haines, who was born in 1840 in New York City applied dancing and ballet tactics to figure skating, and the entire continent of Europe was suddenly on ice. Russia, Switzerland, Denmark, all joined in and the new rage was, of course, not to bypass our Hoboken. Our own Fire Department, well into operation, with a horse drawn pump on a four wheeled red painted wagon, learned to use river water to fill the circular bicycle track in Elysian Park in the winter. Overnight it froze! Gramophone music was supplied by the city the next evening, and although skating was a long way from becoming an official part of the winter Olympics in 1924, it already had it's feet wet in our Hoboken. See Old 1880 Print…. So much so, that in 1888, the Students of Stevens, composed a poem, in their Student Newsletter, The Stevens Indicator, to the sport, and of course, to the girls! "Come girls, get on your jockey hats, dress in your skating suits, be sure to lace up snugly, your pretty little boots, and we will all go skating, for the ice is clear and bright the moon will soon be up, my dears, we'll have a lovely night! Then soon we're off, a little hand tugged snugly neath each arm while all the boys are making love and keeping darlings warm. Oh, don't you think it's jolly, mixing up oneself with curls and going off on moonlit nights skating with the girls! But when it comes to putting on Lord Love us ain't it nice to hold the darlings little foot you have to be precise, or the skate won't fit so snugly so with many twists and twirls How long it takes in putting on the skates of pretty girls. The foot, so small, so very trim the boot so high and neat, perhaps a glimpse of stockings then may cause your heart to beat. It takes so long to put on skates of pretty ones with curls, and yet we wish we always could go skating with the girls." * The Elysian Park elevated circular track was originally built for bicycle riders. Bicycles for riding around it could be hired from the city, but the Winter ice demanded a new idea! Summer picnics gave way to Winter fests, and the "jollification" of our Hoboken continued on for the residents.

 Revolutionary Hoboken "Two for tea, and tea for me!" During the third quarter of the eighteenth century the inhabitants of our Hudson Valley were separated by politics. There were, of course, the Loyalists, who were friends of the King of England, who considered themselves the epitome of civilization. Their cultural attempt was to parallel plantation life, and keep slaves under their constant summonses. Most slaves were uniformed, and treated well, and thusly life was patterned after the customs and manners of aristocratic rural England. There were very few gentry, as most of the citizens here were tenant farmers, and newly arriving immigrants. These paid rent, and a portion of their harvest to the King, by way of the gentry, via overseers and tax collectors. This situation provided a reason- ably comfortable life for the gentry for a short time, until the English king decided to "press the Colonies" by establishing a "tax" on popular staples. Letters of complaint began arriving in England, which the king ignored. A few of our good citizens banded together and refused to pay. The King's answer was to send several ships of red coated soldiers, dubbed the Royal Regiment of Artillery, to the gentry and overseers, to assist in their collections. These became known, locally, as His Majesty's Grenadiers, or "Redcoats!" They were deeply resented by the majority of the population, who were busy secretly organizing en masse, "The Sons of Liberty", and eventually refused to pay! The King, stubbornly refused to be "annoyed" by these Colonialists, again raised rents and taxes. Soon, Hudson County roads were filled with angry tenants, merchants and craftspeople who were displaced out of their homes and stores. Three Hoboken gentry families, The Livingston's, Schuylers, and Van Wagenens were adamantly opposed to the Kings taxes, and flatly refused, by letter to the King, to oversee any property. The Sons of Liberty were now burning and sacking, under cover of darkness, estates of gentry who were harboring the King's Grenadiers! The Hudson Valley became a pre-war powder keg, as the King issued an additional proclamation for a new tax on tea, jam and other useful staples. Into this powder keg setting sailed a ship.

 The trade ship, "London" docked at the mouth of the Hudson, in Hoboken in April of 1774. It's Captain Chambers was kidnapped by the Sons of Liberty, and blindfolded and taken to one of the local taverns, where he was questioned as to his cargo. The Captain maintained that his cargo was not taxable, but was disbelieved! That evening his ship was attacked by marauders who were dressed as Indians, and painted accordingly. The Sons of Liberty, in costume, dumped his cargo of tea and other staples into the Hudson. At home, the wives of these patriots, not to be outdone by their husbands, tied up the local merchants and tea dealers and sold their commodities at flea markets for cost! Thus, in Hoboken, a full two years before the Boston Tea Party, and the Declaration of Independence, over two hundred families signed a sheepskin parchment which was sent to the King. They vowed, in writing, "never to become slaves to England!" A new battle cry echoed across the Hudson Valley. "No King But God!" The first signature on the parchment was that of Hoboken Preacher John Shuneman, and our riverites, now armed and ready to fight for their nation, "in a minute", became known in historical significance as the "Minutemen". Hoboken certainly added it's share of manpower and jolly good sentiment as our citizens who could marched off to war. Among the songs of the Revolution, which became known in our time, as the songs of freedom were the fun lyrics of… Revolutionary Tea…also known in Revolutionary times as;

(The Four O' the Clock Song) There was an old lady lived over the sea and she was the Island Queen, Her daughter moved off to a new countrie with an ocean of water between; The old lady's pockets were full of Gold but never contented was she, so she called on her daughter to pay her a tax of three pence a pound on her tea, of three pence a pound on her tea.. Now mother, dear mother, the daughter replied, I shan't do the thing that you ax ,I'm willing to pay a fair price for the tea, but NEVER the three penny tax. "You shall" quoth the Mother, and reddened with rage, For your'e my own daughter, you see, and sure tis' quite proper the daughter should pay her Mother a tax on her tea. her Mother a tax on her tea. And so the old lady her servant called up: and packed off a budget of tea, and eager for three pence a pound she put in enough for a large family, she ordered her servants to bring home the tax Declaring her child must obey or as old as she was, and almost full grown, she'd half whip her lifetime away The tea was conveyed to the daughter's front door, all down by the ocean's side, and the bouncing good girl pour'd out every pound in the dark and the boiling tide. And then she called out to the Island Queen "Oh, Mother, Dear Mother" quoth she. "Your tea you may have when tis' steeped enough But NEVER a tax from me."

 This song from this area was not as well remembered or recorded as this famous poem! New Jersey and Hoboken should be proud!

 1 7 7 6  Ye thirteen stars of light! Hung in our stormy night of blood and war. Still through uncounted years, burn on, undying spheres shine far amid thy peers! New Jersey's Star! T'was on thy central field, sure victory first was sealed here turned war's tide! Ever live Trenton's name, Princeton and Monmouth fame written in words of flame Deathless abide! For us our God hath wrought, for us thy heroes fought so we are free! Third on the ringing roll, thy hand endorsed the scroll Pledge of a nation's soul to Liberty! Our century's vast increase, rounds it's full orb in Peace to God be praise! Increase in every part, trade in each port and mart Our learning and our art, Be His always! From elemental strife, from our great Nation's life Deep, restless, broad Blend thou a mighty cord, of myriad music, Lord Ascending in one word, That word be GOD! Master of men and states, builder whose will creates Nations and powers Thy pillars Thou dost place, with Lily work of Grace Crown thou, that all the praise Thine be, not ours! Mary C. Gates 1777 Third on the scroll of fame. December 1787 New Jersey ratified the Constitution, after Delaware and Pennsylvania. This poem was read all over the country beginning in Rutgers College Chapel to Celebrate the occasion. Many heroes emerged from our Hoboken during the Revolution, and the most famous of these, is Light Horse Harry Lee...Among his accomplishments were designing under the direction of George Washington, the badges and former shields, state flags and emblems that are now in existence today, with George Washington's favorite horse atop.

 Unit patches for service men also boasted horses. Lee began his career by spying at Atlantic Highlands for British Ships, routing out a counterfeiting ring out of Sandy Hook Lighthouse and burning it down to defeat the British plan to corrupt our country by counterfeiting the payroll of the troops and citizens. He was such a torment to the British that they put a price on his head which read "at any cost!". Washington put him in charge of the food supply which covered Cumberland, Salem, and Cape May counties. His thirty man troop took 400 prisoners at Paulus Hook (Jersey City) only losing one man in the battle, and was quoted in one of his letters home as saying, "the mosquitoes in New Jersey were big enough to bite through leather boots." He spoke at Washington's funeral and said "First in War, First in Peace, First in the Hearts of his Countrymen." which was quoted worldwide, and later became Governor of Virginia for three one year terms. Many schools, especially in rural areas are named after him, and his son, Robert E. Lee followed after him in his military career.

OUR COUNTRY WAS BEGINNING IT'S LEGAL HISTORY, but it was not original, and  WAS taken from the original inhabitants!

 The Great Law, or the Iroquois Confederacy Influence on the Society of the New Millennium ...American Democracy was not originally conceived by the founding fathers, but was already in existence here, for over a thousand years. It was called "The Great Law", and was articulated in a manner by the colonial forefathers when they were taught it by the Iroquois Confederacy. This is prevalent in the works and writings of Benjamin Franklin, James Madison, William Livingston, John Adams, and others too numerous to mention. In addition, forty two members of the Grand Council of the Iroquois served as advisors and consultants on all confederate structures. This included human rights, law, and the structure of government, in peace time and war. Secondly, if the Iroquois had not fought on the side of the English Colonial America, we would all be speaking French and would no doubt, be part of Canada. Amazingly, this piece of historical importance was held orally and by hand signs, from generation to generation, with it's tenets and rules carefully recorded only on wampum belts and carry alls. The State of New York University housed several of these priceless artifacts and was the subject of bitter lawsuits by the Iroquois as early as the 1980's.

The University finally returned these priceless historical treasures back to the natives in 1989. Personal freedom, ownership, ecology, family life and democratic ruler ship with all members of the tribe agreeing were already in practice under "The Great Law". These principals were borrowed, then distorted into the form of Democracy that we now enjoy as "Americans". The flaws, the distortions that we now complain about were created and added, later, by Colonial Americans. What is remarkable is that our translation is exactly opposite of the way it was intended. In our time, decisions, especially military ones, are made by the governing body and the President. "Launch on Warning, Bomb or Invade" lacks the approval of the people who distribute it. Under Iroquois law, no military action could take place without the entire tribe agreeing which took many powwows, at which even the women and the elderly had a voice. When a military response to a situation was eventually approved, warrior recruitment was voluntary. If insufficient warrior power did not evolve, there either was no war, and peace efforts made, or the Chief in charge would have to go alone with a small contingency of peacekeepers into the enemy camp under a flag of truce, as occasionally happened.

 Every member of the tribe was a "fire keeper", and one rule under the law was that "The Men of every clan of the Law shall have a council fire ever burning in readiness for a council of the clans. All councils, shared the same rights, the Women, Grandfathers, Grandmothers, etc. Each group affected by the decision chose a representative speaker. The Great Law also contained specific articles of rights and duties of war, peace, adoption and emigration and immigration (including political asylum) and all ceremonies, funeral and festival rules. Exact procedures were followed, and all ceremonies were preceded by prayers of thanks to "offer thanks to the earth where men dwell, to the streams of water that refresh, to the pools and springs and lakes, to the maize and fruits and herbs and medicines, to the forest trees for their usefulness, to all the animals that serve as food and (that) give their pelts for clothing, to the Great Winds and the Lesser Winds, to the Thunderers and the Sun (our mightiest warrior), to the Moon and the Star Messengers of the Creator, and to the Great Creator who dwells in the heavens, who gives all things useful to men, and who is the source and ruler of all life" The familiarity of "The Great Law" is apparent and great pieces of truth are recognized and surface in the model of our United States Constitution which was adopted and supposedly designed by our forefathers, including Franklin and Jefferson. What eventually was missing was the shared spirituality of the words, which became eroded, dissipated and eventually replaced by Colonial materialism. The very changes that Americans now gripe about as being errors and the flaws in our constitution were inveigled into the meaning of the original words. Perhaps the "new Millennial" search of mankind for spiritual truths to govern us will take us back to the first thousand years of Democracy that we borrowed. Perhaps the Grandfathers and Grandmothers who walk beyond the stars would again touch the spirits and teach yet, the "fire keepers" of the Earth. 

    HOBOKEN'S EARLY PIRACY                           Five flags  are legitimate pirate copies. The  Generic" Jolly Roger" is pure Hollywood!

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William: Hoboken's Visiting Pirate   During the beginnings of the "Golden Age of Piracy" on the "Gold Coast" of our HOBOKEN, another infamous character decided to do some business here. It is a beautiful story, truthful, and historical and begins in New York City. Mid sixteenth century a young minister, his wife standing nearby, carved the name of their newborn baby into a whaling bench pew at their respective church. It was customary, in this manner, for good parishioners to honor their church by purchasing a bench, and such was a seat at Sunday services secured. The Pastor was proud of his fine new strong son, and had named the child "William". William had been born in Scotland, but his parents, seeking their own pastorate and perhaps their own church someday, emigrated "to the new land" and settled down to a busy life amongst the other coming immigrants in New York City. William grew and the salts of the coastline culture invaded his young bloodstream.

 Bored with a coastal life, he went to sea as a young man, serving as cabin boy, and working the merchant vessels between New York and London. His sailing and maritime skills so developed that eventually he became a privateer, with official papers and "Letters of Marque" signed by the English King to officially capture French and Spanish ships in the Car- ribean. Successful voyages were rare, but each was honored by the King, with a merchant ship or a piece of property in "the new land". William specifically requested New York City. After voyages at sea he would vacation in the Caribbean, some- times with his wife and family. By the mid 1690's William and his family and parents and children were residing in an elegant stately home on Pearl Street, in Manhattan. He had taken a wife, an older wealthy ship owner's widow, Sarah Oort, and was raising and educating her two daughters, Elizabeth and Sarah. Neighbors described him as a fine family man, and he contributed much of his merchant and sailing proceeds to the local church.

When his wife became ill, he purchased a female slave for her in England, who was formerly bound by indenture laws, to serve his family for a number of years, in return for free passage across the ocean. On a commerce trip to London, he was introduced to a family of elite shipping wealth, from Hoboken, the Livingston's, and their equally endowed friends, the Bellemonts. These were the elite of their time, their fortunes and social standing from Hoboken were legendary a- cross the waves of two continents. They held much in common. A love of the sea and travel, and hobbies collecting jewels and pirate booty. They were also amassing fortunes in illegal trade with the French. The men of this group of gentry had formed a trade organization, based in England, and had named it "The Lords of London". Aware of the seafaring skills of the young commander, they sought him out, and shared with him a dream and a proposition.

 Their dream was "to raise a Navy to defend the long coastline of the Colonies against the Red Sea Pirates" who were frequently attacking in- coming merchant ships near our shores. Unofficially, goods were also smuggled into the Colonies, and many names of powerful figures and politicians shared in the booty. Sold secretly and at exorbitant prices were slaves, natives, indentured servants who had no other options but to cross the Atlantic to live, sugar, textiles, goods from China, art, and jewels taken in Pirate raids. Spices were rare and Cinnamon, Cloves and flavorings brought high prices when available. The Lords of Trade threw their full support and finances on their new Privateer, and had him presented with a Royal Commission at Court in London. A Captainship, A letter of Marque from the King and a newly fitted galleon, which was christened, "The Adventure Galley", and boasted thirty four guns for sea battle. The new Captain, elated by his good fortune and new friends, immediately set sail on fair winds and following seas, for New York City, where his new money, and the King's old melded together to finance the building of a church. The Trinity Church in lower Manhattan was therefore blessed and opened officially in the year 1698, under a generous grant from the Royalty in England, and William wasted no time in engraving "his" family pew, number 16, with his name "Captain William Kidd, Commander". Captain William Kidd was presented with a hundred and fifty man crew of the finest English seamen available, and provided with the most modern ship fittings.

 He was then given an order to set sail for the Indian Ocean to seek treasure. Unfortunately, someone at court became jealous of Kidd, and while Kidd was at sea, recalled ninety of his crew on another wartime errand. At home, along the Colonial coast, the local papers were beginning to fear for the safety of the residents. Church bells rang out warnings and ready volunteer militia, assisted by the King's soldiers, awaited pirate landings. Gentry and pirates, however were becoming wealthy and earning fame on the spoils of war between England and France. The good Captain Kidd was told only to attack French ships and to keep his ship's papers in order lest he be questioned. His "Letter of Marque" signed and sealed by the English King, would be as good of a witness as he would need against any hint of piracy or wrongdoing. Several opportunities presented themselves for piracy, but Kidd stuck to his word as a gentleman and a loyal supporter of the King. Within a few months, unable to scope a worthy ship to sink, ninety of his crew, without food or treasure, mutinied, and deserted overboard to passing sea vessels.

 William Moore, the ship's gunner, attack the Captain, but Kidd was quicker and smashed Mr. Moore 's head with the ship's bucket. Moore remained comatose all night and died the next day. Unable to feed the loyal crew that remained, Kidd took to piracy. He spied a rich Moorish ship, named the Quedah Merchant and took her. In doing so he damaged his own ship and boarded the Quedah Merchant, abandoning his own off the Coast of Madagascar. He allowed his now jubilant crew to torture and intimidate the Moorish sailors on board in triumph. Contained in the hold of the four hundred ton prize was one of the richest pirate booty's in the history of the high seas. Aboard were now assorted jewels, silks, spices, contraband from other ships, Moorish weapons, and a quantity of opium. Captain Kidd set sail for New York City. In transit, there was some squabbling among the crew between the Captain and two seamen, named Cook and Parrot. They claimed he had shorted them of some of their share, and were nursing a grudge. Ignoring their protests, Captain William Kidd set his course for home. Back in New York City, Politics had changed the course of history. Lord Bellemont, financed by his friends had won a seat as "Governor." His wife had bankrupted him in England, through gambling and lavish parties, and was scandalizing him with the publicity of affairs on two continents. He had been a wealthy man and good friend of the King when the King arranged a marriage to a neighboring Earl's daughter. She was fourteen and healthy, and on suggestion of the King was to be appropriate material to increase the bloodlines of the available royalty, and keep dependable gentry within the confines of the palace.

The marriage, however lasted less than a month, and a despondent Bellemont arrived in New York City to finance a bank, look into fur trading, and report back to the King. He set sail for the Colonies. Whaling profits were open to anyone who could finance a sea voyage, with proper permission and of course the necessary papers from the King. Bellemont spent several weeks investing in Colonial America. Meanwhile, back in England, Lady Bellemont easily sold his holdings and property and bankrupted him. Bellemont petitioned the Queen to deport her and separate her from what little remained of his holdings in England. "Anywhere but England!" he said. Bellemont now had a political image to maintain, and had run for office, financed by "the Lords of London", on a ticket of "reform" promising to "rid our seas of Pirates!" By decree of the Queen, Lady Bellemont, was quietly deported. Her belongings, including the Queen's Emeralds and other collected treasures were sent down to the local dock in several large trunks. By order of the Queen, a new companion and guard was assigned to her as personal escort, in assurance that she would make the voyage. Her ship's pass read, "The Adventure Galley", and her personal escort by written order of the Queen, was Captain William Kidd. Her arrival in Hoboken was met with celebration by the Gentry here. One account of historical significance has her attending the new Governor Bellemont's Masked Ball, in Trenton, which was only for the very socially elite, and was the year's most coveted social event for the higher classes and wealthy. She wore a scandalous black lace gown, and her escort for the Costumed affair was the infamous Captain William Kidd who came dressed as himself, in full pirate costume.

The flag of the Jolly Roger hung over the Governor's Mansion for the ball. Also in attendance were the Hoboken Livingstons, and the Lords of London Group, and their wives and companions. Lady Bellemont was the hit of the evening, and now moved permanently into her husband's most palatial Governor's Mansion, to again take up her wifely duties! She took a few occasional trips abroad with her husband and new friends. Somehow, Lord Bellemont had become increasingly jealous of his young expensive bride, and the household staff was well paid to keep him informed of her whereabouts and activities. She was plied with gifts of finest jewels, and assorted collections of priceless antiques and Colonial items of value. She annoyed the locals of our Coastline by confiscating, in the name of the King of England, any property or personal possession that she considered worth having. There were many instances of complaints, but they were politically covered up or legally ignored. The first week of July, in the year 1699, the Adventure Galley, under Captain Kidd arrived in New York Harbor. He stopped at Gardiners Island (Staten Island) and buried his portion of his treasure a half mile inland. He transferred more treasure to his own personal sloop, "The Saint Anthony", which he sunk off the coast of Hoboken, in Hoboken Cove. (now Weehawken -Hoboken border). He then buried some more in a location known only to himself, and went to see his Attorney, James Emmot, in New York City. Mr. Emmot had a verbal surprise for the Captain. He explained that Kidd had been declared a Pirate by "the Lords of London" who had financed him. Kidd laughingly explained that he had a "Letter of Marque" signed by the King from a captured ship, and as it was written in French, it would clear him of any stigma associated with piracy. Kidd then borrowed a ship and crew from Hoboken and went to Sandy Hook.

 He and his crew became drunk and uproarious and the crew threw him overboard with a "purse of coin numbering three hundred gold". He buried most of it, then made his way back to Hoboken, but finding the men here "too milde and friendly and religious" found a cutthroat bar in New York City and hired a crew for his next voyage. Unnoticed by Kidd were two past seamen from his previous voyage. The two he had cheated. Mr. Cook and Mr. Parrot had entertained the entire establishments of the river of assorted pirates and harbor rats with tales of how Kidd had cheated them at sea. Kidd, now not only in fear of the stigma of Piracy, was also in fear of his life from former shipmates. Drunk, he dressed in his finest Captains unif- orm and went to see "his lady", at the Governor's Mansion. He brought with him an assortment of coins, jewels, his ship's logs and his letter of Marque. These he left with "his lady" for safekeeping and stayed the night for Brandy and conversation. Bellemont was away for a few days, but had already sent the King's soldiers to confiscate Kidd's Gardiner Island Treasure. They found nothing! Bellemont arrived home, accompanied by the King's guards, who promptly took a sleeping Kidd out of the Master Bedroom, in chains! His past friend, supporter and now Governor had charged Kidd with treason, piracy and murder. Kidd was detained for trial, while the local media sensationalized and horrified the entire Colonial coast with tales of cannibalism, and other stories of pirates at sea. The King wanted him first, so Kidd was deported to England, in chains!

 In a cold February he arrived in London for trial! The two crewman came forward, Cook and Parrot and testified against him for the murder of William Moore, at sea. Kidd was convicted of one count of murder and sentenced to be hung, but his dejection was not as yet complete! A second trial was held charging Kidd with five counts of Piracy. Kidd testified that the ship's he had seized in the Indian Ocean were legal, and that his "Letter of Marque" could clear his name. But the evidence and bribes that he had left with Lady Bellemont for "safekeeping" was not admitted as evidence, as it could not be found. In addition Mr. Gardiner, where Kidd had buried some of his treasure on Staten Island admitted, in court to a bribe, of "two bags of silver weighing in at thirty pounds", "a small bundle of gold", "gold dust, about a pound weight", "a pirate sash, and a pair of worsted stockings". Gardiner also testified, as the trial raged on, that Kidd convinced him to hide "three negroes, two boys and a girl, ashore to keep" until Kidd could come back for them. Kidd was convicted of Piracy and on May 23, 1701, in England, Kidd stood waiting on the wooden gallows. He was hung, but luckily survived. The floor gave way beneath his weight the first time, but because of the charge of Piracy and lack of Letter of Marque, he was again hung. This time it worked. His body, by order of the King and Queen of England, remained hanging in full public view, in a cage like apparatus as a deterrent to Piracy. It stood there for twenty years as a message to future privateers. While the good Captain awaited the gallows, and between court appearances, several weeks had ensued. Kidd was the most famous and entertaining guest of the London jail, and was treated almost reverently by the jailors and other inmates. Kidd bragged consistently, that most of his treasure was buried in assorted places and would never be found.

 He mentioned that the residents where he had sunk his most precious of the ship's hold were "too milde and friendlee and religious to ever find it!" (Hoboken) Halfheartedly believing that he would still be proven innocent by his lady love, and that the papers that would clear him would surface via Lady Bellemont, he composed a sea chant. This sing-song nautical ditty inspired his jailers, as they allowed themselves to be entertained by his tales of the high seas. The melody has long been lost to time and antiquity, but the words scribed by the English jailer survive. My name is Captain Kidd, when I sail'd, when I sail'd and so wickedly I did when I sail'd when I sail'd I roamed from sound to sound and many a ship I found and then I sunk or burned when I sail'd I murdered William Moore and laid him in his gore not many leagues from shore..when I sail'd Fare thee well to young and old all jolly seamen hold your'e welcome to my gold for I must die, I must die Farewell to Lunnen Town, the pretty girls all around No pardon can be found, and I must die, I must die Farewell for I must die, then to eternity in hideous misery, I must die… His poetry at Execution Dock extracted an unknown local poet and talent to also leave a note pinned on the dock. "reader, near this tomb don't stand without some essence in thy hand for here Kidd's stinking corpse does lie the scent of which may thee infect" Kidd died bragging that the bulk of his treasure would never be found. That was his revenge. This story is mine. Small pieces of historical in- formation in odd and unusual places sometimes answer naked questions. Questions like "Where is Captain Kidd's missing treasure ship found?"

Within a few weeks of Kidd's demise Lady and Lord Bellemont were seen cruising the Hudson in their newly refitted sloop, "The Anthony". History says that this incensed the local Puritan and Quaker culture here. The Bellemonts, over jeweled and overdressed to the point of ridiculousness here, in Hoboken, rode up and down the Hudson in their extravagant new barge, modeled and painted in the style of "Cleopatra of Egypt". They were attended by "two negro boys and a girl slave", who fanned them furiously with palm fronds, and were dressed ridiculously in Peacock Uniforms! So many complaints were formed by the locals here, that the Bellemonts were recalled by the Queen, and replaced by the Cornbury's from England who arrived to commandeer their property and residence. The Bellemonts, faded into the silent place of history where people are never found. The Hoboken Quaker community founding fathers and ministers were again in sole possession of Colonial Hoboken and remained, "Milde and friendlee and religious." Author's Note: Swimming was considered a sinful activity by the Quaker fathers, who believed that they were the descendent survivors of the drowning of Pharoah's soldiers… Kidd's lost treasure ship has become a legend and has grown almost into a cult during the past several years, and as Nautical Archaeology and the Science of Numismatics broadens, the search is on… Two facts come to mind. It has never been found. The Hoboken Gold Coast has never been searched !                .    Kidd map of NEW YORK (1666) hand drawn by KIDD himself....

 Happy Treasure Hunting in Fair Winds and Following Seas        

 RE: The Still Missing Emeralds It was a fairly common practice for the Kings and Queens of countries to pawn their crown jewels or fence their priceless gemstone collections as security to finance ship's voyages, or "hold" for loans in time of war. There exist numberless historical accounts, countless legends and recorded episodes where priceless treasure and their surrounding human acquisition have become legend. Deserts, seas, caves, graves, grounds and aquatic resting places hold the secrets of the ages, including romanticized place names like El Dorado, and Sybil's Cave! The holds of ships and their coveted treasure were except- ional in this respect, and Captain Kidd's Adventure Galley was rumored to contain the Muzo Queen Emeralds. The legendary Diadem was first traced to Columbia, where a deity female idol was worshipped. The Aztec natives had called her the Fura Tema and the rumors of her Goddess abilities float like enticing driftwood that follows in the wake of the ships of Captain Kidd. Strands of Emeralds attached to a diadem framed the face of the Fura and covered her from her scalp to her toes. The ropes hung down in sprays of Gold and Emeralds, and touched the floor. There was, of course, much superstition and mystique that surrounded the Aztec idol. She was said to live in a cloud of a lightning storm, and that whatever woman possessed one of the Emeralds would have ultimate power over the weather, the growing of crops, and the lives and circumstances of all the natives. She only chose to be the epitome of everything FEMALE, and if a man wore or touched any of the Emeralds, he would be recalled to a horrible death and he would die.

 The legend grew in time, and eventually piracy resulted in the Muzo Queen Emeralds relocation, through the Conquistadores, on several pirate vessels, and finally on the Adventure Galley, as captured pirate booty. Emeralds were sold everywhere, and became one of the most popular gemstones to collectors. A foot or so was cut from the original idol, off the bottom, at first, and some of the stones surfaced, publicly, to be used to replace the missing crown jewels of "THE CORONATION REGALIA", that was held in Westminster Abbey, England. After the Queen of England was crowned, a few more of the magnificent pigeon egg sized Emeralds were newly refreshed, and were eventually put on private display in a museum set- ting in the Tower of London. Some were created into a diadem crown, and were renamed by the Queen, "The Cambridge Prarure Diadem". A few wound up in India, and were again captured by several pirate ships, who returned them again to the Queen. Some rested in the holds of the captain's quarters, temporarily, and sailed the seven seas with the pirates who captured them, only to return to the Queen herself. They were again individually refreshed, and again renamed for the Crown jewels, "The Delhi Dunbar Prarure".

There was a tremendous amount of publicity chasing each gem and the documented expenses surrounding their acquisition was questioned continually by the masses. Ransom notwithstanding, Queen Elizabeth the Second insists to this day publicly, that the entire collection of her forty foot room of jewels (not including the crown jewels displayed in the Tower of London) were "gifts", and of course, mentioned, that no further explanation from royalty was necessary, nor would be. When questioned, she laughingly refers to her forty foot room of gems of 93 and 63 carats, including the Emeralds found, as "Granny's Chips!" (located under Buckingham Palace) The Golden Age of Piracy has now extended itself into our millennium by modern day movie stars. Perhaps it never left! There are icons of movies and industry who basically collect priceless jewelry and models who are photographed with it for publicity in order to sell less worthy jewelry to the public. Elizabeth Taylor's jewelry collection is nearly as infamous as she is. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis was to be the recipient of a forty seven carat ring, but John F. was assassinated before he had the opportunity to present it to her. It was later sold at Sotheby's for FOUR HUNDRED AND TEN Thousand Dollars!

 The Shah's of Arabian countries have long had a mystique and a fascination and superstition surrounding gems, and have long invested fortuned in fabulous Rubies and staggering Emeralds. The famous and the favored few who could afford such treasure number in the hundreds, especially among the movie industry. Joan Crawford and Jean Harlow were partial to Sapphires! Marlene Dietrich achieved a certain notoriety by using her own coveted jewels to blackmail Jane Wyman in the movie, "Stage Fright!" Emeralds again! Rare have any of these priceless treasure remained in one place for long! Their after images float like enticing driftwood, beckoning modern pirates and privateers of old to search the sunken galleon logs and sites. Most of the Fura Tema, it's magnificent tiara and hanging strands have remained a secret, perhaps gracing some watery sand barge, or perchance have become a watery resting place for deepwater undersea creatures, or a sand crab's habitat. Perhaps not! Some of the bottom strands have surfaced but not the headdress it- self! Kidd did brag, that it was aboard his "treasure sloop!" and that no one would ever find it. His main ship, The Adventure Galley, was found off the coast of Madagascar by divers, and although it contained cannon and brass fittings, and was a great archaeologist's find in our time, it was lacking the Fura Tema. Paper chasers, and historical trivia searchers and folklorists delve into the history of lost items and find an occasional prospector or audience still searching for lost treasure. The thrill of the search remains a common pastime for the rich and the bored, and a paper chase and research roundup for the writer of history. Edgar Allen Poe perused many a sad souls and stories of those who had wasted lifetimes in searches for pots of gold at the end of rainbows. Most grew old and ill and passed in desperation, thus imbibing their passion onto fellow pilgrims.

Most movies and good books are base on horror stories of fraud, Egyptian curses, claim jumping, false papers, mysterious deaths, etc. all attributed to the greed of man for treasure! Poe was himself possessed of a dark humor, and his research led him to be so inspired that he composed one of his most famous poems on the greed of man. He hid the dark side of seeking fortunes in a poem called,

                                                                                                  ELDORADO

Gaily bedight, a gallant knight in sunshine and in shadow  Had journeyed long, singing a song in search of Eldorado.            

But he grew old, this knight so bold and o'er his heart a shadow Fell, as he found no spot of ground that looked like                                                                                               ELDORADO ............

And as his strength failed him at length He met a pilgrim shadow  "Shadow," said he, "Where can it be?" This land of Eldorado?

Over the mountains of the Moon Down the valley of the Shadow  "Ride boldly ride" the shade replied "if you seek for Eldorado."

 The Jersey City Windmill *Early Dutch farmers, secure in the new economy, strung  lights on their famous Jersey City windmill, in order that their incoming immigrant relatives could find them by ship. The "lighthouse idea" did, however, backfire, and the more religious among the relatives (Quakers) saw the cross lit and twisting in the wind, and decided that it was a sinful use of a religious symbol, and bypassed Jersey City (Ahasimus) and therefore settled in Hoboken. A part of Hoboken was connected to Jersey City at that time, but Hoboken as ever wanted it's own independence and distanced itself to shine in it's own light as a place independent of all others, including the shadow of the city across the river known then as New Amsterdam.

The windmill therefore became a symbol of our separation from Jersey City as a town  and graced many  Dutch lawns and gardens. It matched culturally with the Blue Delft dishes and ornaments that the Dutch brought with them and the commerce from China, brought by ship, including the whale oil lamps that were new and in use. Even then they were giving way to the gaslight, and the lowly candle to electricity in the homes of the new gentrified Hoboken.

Hoboken suffered a brief notoriety as a whaling community. It was a short and expensive part of our historical past. During an especially rainy Spring, in 1647, an albino whale was seen cavorting in the Hudson with it's smaller brown mate. The remaining Native Americans here took it as a bad omen, and frightened the superstitious Dutch. Daily, many of the population lined the banks of the Hudson to watch the pale beast cavort with it's mate! Seemingly, the dark whale ran aground and died! This permeated the air for six miles in all directions with an intolerable odor! Some enterprising citizens, who had endured previous whaling experience broiled the carcass and provided oil for the Jenkins Candle works, located here. Within a few short years, there were more than twenty newly outfitted whalers docked in Hoboken. The Dutch, referred to the ships, as "the Stinkers!", but cleverly financed them, forming "The Hudson Whaling Company, " and opening the "Bank of Hudson". For a decade, whaling thrived! Captain Robert Folger, in the "Hudson", and Captain Judah Paddock, and his brother Laban brought back cargo worth $80,000! Captain Solomon Bunker, came back in "The American Hero" with the largest sperm whale cargo ever brought in to the Colonies!

 Soon other companies opened for business closer to the captive whales! Local businessmen complained that the river towns were too distant from the whales and that Nantucket was too much competition. Oil prices dropped and there was infighting. The Hudson froze every winter and many of the new companies elsewhere did not suffer from this business indignity. Modern gas lamps became the fashion and ended the use of whale oil for illumination and Whaling died out quickly, and was just as quickly replaced with new and improved schooners bringing back cargo from foreign ports. There were sealskins, and hides, giant tortoises and their eggs, tusks, ebony, gold, rum, and Spanish Doubloons. The Captains who had survived turned traders, and were now exploring the Amazon, the Congo, and Spain! Sea stories of the surviving Captains now included pirate tales, as well as starvation stories and cannibalism. The British, patrolled the Ocean waters, "like sharks", and promised to confiscate and cargo "not in keeping" with British policy! Whaling had all but disappeared from our culture, as our new villa dwellers on the banks of the Hudson clapped perfumed hands, and held imported lace handkerchiefs to their aristocratic noses, and waved to the cleaner more sophisticated ships! Captain Kidd was said to have attended the Governor's Masked Ball in Albany, in full Pirates Costume. He befriended the local gentry and one account of history has him being put ashore from his ship docked at Sandy Hook with three chests of Gold Doubloons, which he buried for safekeeping. He was shortly arrested here, still maintaining his innocence and his lady love, and sent by ship to England to be hanged. He never spoke of his hidden treasure! Sudden squalls also caused more than one shipwreck in our area, and our state, New Jersey, has an aquatic history, like most seaport states, of wrecks never having been located. Lost off of our coast are several wrecks including Captain Kidd's lost ship, a Civil War Blockade runner, complete with cannon and musket weaponry, and a still missing German Submarine. There are hundreds of  others which have not been found. Check the map at our local dive shop which list and point out some of them.

                                                                   THE FIRST AND FOREMOST MAYOR OF HOBOKEN 

Mid Eighteenth Century Hoboken was somewhat ruled by so called blue laws. Cussing in public, skipping church on Sunday or playing cards in public could bring an arrest by a local deacon, a day in jail, or several hours "in the stocks" for public ridicule. Public drunken- ness was heavily fined and the city fathers were becoming moderately wealthy from prospectors who were just "passing through!" But as usual, the serious inhabitants insisted on peace and quiet, and therefore parties were rare and night life was for a time, dreary. Arising form this quiet time in our history, a rare source of amusement came of age. Moth eaten curiosities put on exhibit in makeshift "museums" became part and parcel of the entertainment of the era, all in the name of the "education" of the residents. City residents and farmers had already decided on the first Mayor of Hoboken, and Cornelius Glickener, a laxative and snake oil salesman, was elected by a unanimous vote.

 His soapbox oratories promised to "purge his constituency" of any and all inherent evils, and he was not above going from door to door to "relieve the locals of their dietary in- discretions!" Along with his snake oil concoction, which he offered to the city at a reasonable discount, he also promised to bring "fashionable European entertainment" to his new and growing constituency. His first official act as Mayor, was to invite the infamous showman, P. T. Barnum, whose side shows were the media rage of Europe, to the new and growing township of Hoboken. Phineas Taylor Barnum, was at the time, conveniently scouting a new location for his well advertised curio "museum". Barnum was welcomed the last day of August, mid Eighteenth Century about 1845, by a crowd of twenty four thousand area residents, a brass band, and the local dignitaries and people of renown. He had brought with him twenty Buffalo calves and his main attraction, a Mr. French, who was fully dressed as a Native American Chief.

 Mr. French, to cover his European accent, adopted an unusual vocabulary especially for the citizens of Hoboken. He spoke only two native words, "Ugh" and "How", but was avidly followed by the town's children, and became a major draw and attraction for the coming festival. The local papers went wild announcing that there was to be a "Grand Buffalo Hunt " near the ferry, and the whole city was invited to watch and participate. So many citizens showed up that the Buffalo stampeded, causing tourists and farmers alike to climb trees for safety. Calves were seen all over town, much to the delight of the children here who chased them for most of the day. A few of the crazed animals got as far as city hall, where the local constable fired four shots at them before locking himself in the city jail for his own protection. Several calves were never recovered and both of the local butchers were questioned. They insisted they didn't know anything, and the search was discontinued.

There were several injuries, and a woman was knocked into a huge puddle by a rollicking calf, but all was contained by sundown. Always the master showman, Barnum had also built a quieter and more lucrative side attraction. While the Buffalo roamed the city, a large mysterious barn like structure was being hurriedly built. It appeared in close proximity to city hall, and an immense sign graced the property reading, "Hoboken, Home of the Flying Mule!" A barker, nattily attired in striped shirt and straw hat, stood in front of the building yelling in the street. For only the price of one thin dime, a perspicacious tourist could have a "look see" at this "miraculous mistake of Mother Nature", from OUTSIDE the barn. Barnum, resplendent in his top hat and tails, insisted that "no earthly human enter the angelicus inhabitation", as tourists were want " to make the animal nervous".

 By night immense crowds of farmers and other onlookers had lined up in front of the edifice. Several street children curiously poked out a knothole in the back of the barn. They espied an elaborate concoction of ropes and pulleys attached by wet cement to two ship's paddles, that were appropriately placed a- cross the back of an overburdened and very angry mule. Barnum would irritate the underside of the unfortunate beast, and tickle it's unmentionable parts, and the animal would buck and haw loudly, and it's "wings" would flap three times. People paid ten cents for a dimly lit "peek" but within minutes the town's children had exposed the stunt to everyone within hearing distance. Eventually an incensed mob of farmers gathered and were calling for "Tar and Feathers!" Some of the remaining Indian citizens offered to scalp the Mayor and his new best friend, P.T. Barnum, but Hizzoner appeared and calmed the crowd by loudly proclaiming both innocence and outrage.

 "I will get to the bottom of this situation", he promised, which brought a modicum of laughter from the crowd. Barnum had taken the appearance of the Mayor as a diversion, and had conveniently disappeared to the other side of the river, where he spotted a museum for sale on Broadway and Ann Street, in New York City, which he eventually bought. Not at all afraid of the farmers on our side of the river, he hit the local papers with the statement that "there is a sucker born every minute!", and consequently opened his new "Museum" boasting new animal shows and a new and unusual attraction. Barnum and a new acquaintance, a taxidermist friend had "found" a dead monkey somewhere in New York City. He claimed that it's lower body was that of "a Salmon like fish!", and made a public statement to the new press conference he called. "From now on I am going to believe in Mermaids", was his public statement in the New York Papers, and the media promptly pandered the "mermaid" as caught off the Fiji Islands! The price for New Yorkers to view this "new curiosity" was raised to twenty five cents.

 Mayor Glickener, his back turned on his new friendship gave his full attention to other entertainment for his Hobokenites! One fine Spring day it was advertised that a Lady and Gentleman would ascend in a balloon at Elysian Fields. (Now Park) The wind kicked up and when accosted they refused in fear of their lives, and sent two cats up instead, advertising them as Thomas and Tabitha! This was more of a political humbug than the accustomed crowds could stand and they freed the cats. While a superb brass band was playing waltzes to calm them down, the crowd tore the balloon to pieces, and "humbug" became a popular expression in the language of the times, whenever any shady event occurred. This did not deter the Mayor however, and he hosted another momentous occasion "for the public!" He announced "An Indian War Dance", and it was well billed by the city as entertainment. Unfortunately, such rowdy crowds gathered that the "natives" became frightened and hid in the nearby swamps! Humbugs notwithstanding for the new and wiser and more seasoned Hobokenites, the town moved forward to the second Mayor! Some traditions never change, and we still have band concerts, put on by the city, and some forms of entertainment engineered by City Hall for the "people." 

The Evolution of Art in Hoboken According to the "History of Modern Painting", up to the Declaration of Independence, in 1776 there were neither recognized painters nor sculptors in our America. This was in some sense a partially true statement, as American art had yet to evolve. Art was also repudiated by the Quakers, and some of the other religious groups as frivolous and unnecessary. However, some enterprising European immigrants managed to squirrel away a few old family portraits. Eventually, the Hudson valley  became settled. Currency changed the face of America. Rude public buildings materialized and began to modernize the landscape. This new wall space enticed enterprising young painters to surface on the scene. By the turn of the century, the "Gay Nineties" portraits had become fashionable. Banks, public buildings and saloons, began displaying early American art. The prized paintings were mostly of partially clad women, and adorned most public buildings, much to the consternation of religious groups. This phenomena interested an American soldier named John Trumball.  Trumball had served as George Washington's aide in the War of Independence.

 He was also an art pupil, which he learned as a political prisoner of war in London. Trumball was to change the face of art in this country forever. He made the transition, from portraits, to the glorification of his country in war. His artistic intention was "to endeavor to preserve the memory of every national event by a monumental work". John Trumball's panoramic murals adorned the capitol in 1817. "The Battle of Bunker Hill" and "The Declaration of Independence" were two of his most famous works. Murals became the new rage, and the Bible historical battles, farm scenes and mountain lakes joined the panorama of new American art. Murals were everywhere, and were soon supplanted by headlong waterfalls, silent forests, and seascapes. The talent that migrated West added herds of Buffalo,and all of the prarie scenery of the West! The "wild and wooly" West had delighted civilized Europe and the world market for art was birthed and expanded. Our own Hoboken and the general New York City area became a spawning ground and exhibition arena for artistic talent. Art in the West migrated East, and many enterprising new artists appeared on the scene here. Among them was a New York City born sketch- master named Charles Shreyvogel. He daily patrolled the West making countless sketches and sculptures of Indian and Cavalry. His obsession with his craft coupled with historical accuracy eventually led him to create numerous bronzes and twelve large murals. All but the sketches were done, from a third floor rooftop, and adjacent apartment at 1220 Park Avenue in Hoboken.

Neighbors and children of friends acted as models. Those same neighbors described Shreyvogel as a dark suited, eccentric vested man who always wore a bowler hat. Shreyvogel's shoes had holes, and he was very poor, but he had a generous spirit and was well liked in the neighborhood. He gave away many of his small paintings and bronzes to neighbors and bill collectors. His Park Avenue rooftop was continually cluttered with clay models of Horses in every stage of wildness. His wife, Lulu took in laundry and wore hand me downs. Louisa Walters was the Victorian daughter of the town's seltzer works. Her father refused to attend her wedding to this penniless eccentric. But Charles and Lulu were in love and married in Hoboken on August 24, 1894. Undeterred by either critics or finances, Shreyvogel began to paint. Among his first serious work was a portrait of his wife. His first press notice was in the New York Herald, on New Year's Day in 1900. He was hailed as a genius, and his name was compared to Remington and Russell as a great Western artist! "My Bunkie" his first painting, brought him instantaneous fame and fortune.

 It shows three cavalry soldiers in a running fight with Indians. It was displayed in The American Fine Arts Gallery on West 57th Street in New York in 1901, and won the most coveted trophy of the year. It was followed by "The Last Drop", a touching panorama of a trouper, kneeling before his horse to share his last water from the trouper's hat! Shreyvogel became one of the most sought after Western painters in America and his collection is now on permanent display at the Cowboy Hall of Fame, in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. The paintings and bronzes that he shared are still in private hands and are priceless. Thus a penniless eccentric left a priceless tribute of talent to the world of Western Art, all from a Park Avenue rooftop apartment in Hoboken. 1902 Shreyvogel also had the distinction of sponsoring, with his friend, Ferdinand Kaegebehn, and other trustees of the Free Public Library, a museum, where copies of his best works were displayed among other Hoboken memorabilia. The Museum was located at 802 Washington Street, and boasted rare Indian artifacts from our area, pioneer furniture and implements of early Dutch life here. Among the souvenirs which could be bought was a rare souvenir album of Shreyvogel's best works! Picture of Shreyvogel's Museum Album and the story of his life and work, in the second floor file of the Hoboken Public Library.

                                                                HOBOKEN's FIRST PARADE...CIVIL WAR HISTORY

 MARCHING BANDS AT FIRST PARADE ON MAY 30 1868 STARTING FROM HOBOKEN FIRST BATTALION NEW JERSEY STATE MILITIA MAJOR B.F. HART COMPANY A CAPTAIN P.J. MEEHAN COMPANY C JOSEPH GREEN COMPANY D LT. MCLUSKY COMPANY B. CAPTAIN GEORGE NEUSCHELER BATTERY A NEW JERSEY STATE ARTILLERY HOBOKEN VETERAN CORPS POST NUMBER 19 ( WHICH WALKED ON EITHER SIDE OF THE HEARSE FILLED WITH FLOWERS) UNION HILL VETERANS CORPS AND CITIZENS ON FOOT… THE GRAND ARMY (U.S. ARMY) of the REPUBLIC UNDER THE COMMAND OF MAJOR B.B. BROWN THE NATIONAL GLEE CLUB THE FOSTER QUARTET CLUB (CHOIRS) THE LINE OF MARCH WENT TO THREE CEMETERIES COVERING HOBOKEN, WEEHAWKEN, AND JERSEY CITY THE HOBOKEN CEMETERY The Stevens Family plot holds the bones of the Ladies of Castle Stevens Colonel John Major Richard Stevens The Black Slave Peter Lee who was buried with the women in the family that he served all his life. The bones of the Indians (Native American Lenape) that Steven's had moved to his family plot. (see Massacre at Pavonia) (My first book) Assorted Politicians and Congressmen Original Called New Durham Cemetery the name was changed to Flower Hill Civil War and Revolutionary War Heroes (see names from the 1st Memorial Day Parade buried there) listed … The First Memorial Day Parade (chapter of new book enclosed) and two Medal of Honor WINNERS Frank J. Bart and Decatur Dorsey Bart Advanced in front of his troup knocking out a German Machine Gunner Placement, and then when his comrades were pinned down advanced again, and knocked out a second Placement (WW2) Decatur Dorsey was a BLACK Sgt. and when his troupe was pinned down in the civil war, and there was no hope of winning the battle, picked up an American flag and charged the enemy, thereby rallying the men to win the battle. (CIVIL WAR) (the movie "Dances with Wolves" had a similar scene only the actor was given a horse to charge with.) Charles Shreyvogel was the first recognized ARTIST from here. ( story enclosed) "Our Honor's Bright All O'Er the Land" a song written to honor the colored patriots from here who served including COMPANY B which was DECATUR DORSEY's COMPANY (are the rest of the BLACK BATTALIAN BURIED THERE) ? There is a controversy regarding this issue, but nobody knows for sure. Edwin Ruthvin Vincent Wright began "The Jersey Blue" in 1836, Hoboken Newspaper, Lawyer, Congressman and Governor of New Jersey in 1869 buried 1871 Hoboken Cemetery Allen Langdon McDermott buried 1908 Lawyer, New Jersey Congressman Democratic Committee Chairman Hoboken Cemetery etc. etc. etc. There are hundreds more famous and infamous underground citizens whose names and deeds have been erased by the elements of time and the distance of millenniums. Presently the Hoboken Cemetery and other gravesites are being touted to the public as neglected and uncared for. History teaches us that those who err in the past are doomed to repeat the same mistakes in the future. Let us hope not! There is nothing funny about either death or war, and yet it remains that the humor of each has been retained by the general populace. Jokes and songs and sayings survive from the hardships of each and every detrimental occurrence to the public. Something is then saved from each of the bravest and most talented soul to pass onto the next generation and perhaps even continue for awhile. These treasures of thought are priceless and keep the humor alive for posterity. There are hundreds of humorous epitaphs covering the monuments of the underground citizens who now exist beyond the stars. Each is flavored with the time and language and culture that it existed. I have conserved four, for want of space.

 My favorites! "Here lies the father of twenty-nine (16th Century) He would have made more, but he didn't have time." Dutch Farmer

'He got a fishbone in his throat, and then he sang an Angel note" (San Francisco entertainer)

 "Once I weren't then I was, now I ain't, again!" (17th Century Trapper) and my favorite turn of the century Victorian Poet, Effie Jean Robinson 1897 - 1922 "Come, blooming youths, as you pass by and on these words do cast an eye, as you are now, so once was I, as I am now, so must you be, prepare for death, and follow me."

 In 1922 some Roaring 20's Flapper had pencilled in the space under the words… "to follow you, I'm not content, How do I know which way you went."

 As you can see the humor of the nation evolves and is colored and influenced, even underground , by the decade that it passes. This is also true of music, fashion and language. Verbalized expressions are consistently studied in our age by people who find how they are influenced. Native tongue, jargon, slang, lingo, jive, rap, all have been influenced by the eras of the past. One idea, one comment, or presentation must first pass through a baptism of fire, a gauntlet of ridicule, humor and criticism before it is remembered, or at least partially accepted. Darwin's Theory of evolution is a classic example. It is remembered by most, disbelieved by many, and studied and spoken by all. "Be kind to your web footed friends, cause a duck could be somebody's mother" is a song played at every Political gathering. "Darwinian man, though well behaved, is at best a monkey shaved." W. Gilbert Poet

Even Patriotism and Politics have a root of humor when they show their darker side! Hoboken had it's fair share of this. THE FIRST MEMORIAL DAY PARADE IN HOBOKEN. SECURED FROM THE ARMY WHICH WAS KNOWN THEN AS "THE GRAND ARMY OF THE REPUBLIC'' the information is also listed in a book called "Memorial Day" written in 1903, and Hoboken has the same five pages listed. GENERAL ORDERS NUMBER ELEVEN WAS ISSUED ON 5 MAY, 1868 AND MANY MUNICIPALITIES HONORED IT ON THE DAY IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE HONORED…. 30 MAY…. HOBOKEN WADSWORTH POST NUMBER 19 ORGANIZED AND MARCHED. ENCLOSED ARE THE NAMES THE MARCHERS, THE SEVEN SOLDIERS FROM HOBOKEN KILLED AT FREDERICKSBURG IN THE CIVIL WAR INCLUDING A COLONEL (VAN HOUTEN) WINTHROP… LYON, MCPHERSON, SEDGEWICK, WADSWORTH, KEARNEY ( a question was raised why there were only seven killed in the civil war here.

 It was not for lack of bravery. There were only about 40 families here, and many came back amputees or not at all) These bodies were found and went home to HOBOKEN. THE PARADE MARCHED FROM THE WEEHAWKEN CEMETERY TO THE HOBOKEN CEMETERY (8TH AND HUDSON) to the JERSEY CITY CEMETERY (GROVE CHURCH) GROVE ST. WHERE A YOUNG MAN NAMED BUTTERWORTH COMPANY I WAS BURIED…TWELVE OF HIS COMRADES FROM HIS UNIT PUT FLOWERS ON HIS GRAVE…. THE HOBOKEN CITY BAND…PLAYED 'REST, SPIRIT, REST' LED BY A PROFESSOR CONTERNO ( It was composed to honor the death of ABRAHAM LINCOLN three years before and was played frequently at funerals) ….(LIBRARY of CONGRESS) AND A HORSE DRAWN HEARSE FILLED WITH FLOWERS TO DECORATE THE GRAVES FOLLOWED THE BAND… THERE WERE THREE STAGE COACHES CARRYING CHOIR MEMBERS, FLOWERS AND CITIZENS (widows, families of the deceased, etc.) THE HORSES WERE PROVIDED FROM THE HOBOKEN RIDING ACADEMY…later became a school….. A STAGE CARRYING THE CHAPLAIN AND ASSISTANT CHAPLAIN ANOTHER STAGE WITH CITY OFFICIALS (also horse drawn) AND TWENTY FIVE CARRIAGES CARRYING CITIZENS dressed in black. IT WAS A HUGE LINE OF MARCH AND FLAGS OVER THREE CITIES WERE SET AT HALF MAST AND THE NAMES OF THE DEAD WERE READ OVER THE GRAVES. GENERAL ORDERS NUMBER ELEVEN WAS ISSUED ON MAY 5 1868 POST NUMBER 19 POSTED IT…. THIS GAVE TIME TO MUNICIPALITIES TO PLAN AND EXECUTE THE PARADE ON 30 MAY… A TRADITION WE HOLD in our time, now called MEMORIAL DAY...1868 ON THE CONCLUSION OF THE ORATION THE CHAPLAINS ACCOMPANIED TWO CHOIRS AND THE BAND THEY SANG "AMERICA". THE ORATORY STATEMENT FOR THE WAR DEAD IS WRITTEN ON PAGES 566 AND 567 IT WAS GIVEN BY CHAPLAIN AND GENERAL H. EDWIN TREMAINE ( Library of Congress Archives)

The Procession was formed at ODD FELLOWS HALL about 1 P.M. It halted at each cemetery and decorated the graves of the fallen comrades. Enclosed prayer was read by Chaplain and General Edwin Tremaine; and the choirs sang. Three towns joined in the procession to honor the Civil War heroes who had given their lives for their country. Names were read from the Loyalist Muster Roll and these men were honored also. Enclosed names from OUR HOBOKEN VOLUNTEERS who signed up. Again, it was called the NEW JERSEY LOYALIST VOLUNTEERS and the name ARMY wasn't used yet. (1779- REVOLUTIONARY WAR DEAD and volunteers. HOBOKEN ALSO HAD A NAVY and it was staffed by volunteers to go to sea and confiscate PIRATE SHIPS to use to pay OUR SOLDIERS AND SAILORS…Frequently our sailors were paid in doubloons, or Spanish REALS, or pieces of eight, from the confiscated ships. ALTHOUGH THIS WAS A DIFFERENT WAR…(THE SPANISH AMERICAN WAR) HOBOKEN VOLUNTEERS BUILT AND FITTED OUT A NAVAL RESERVE SHIP…which they christened "THE BADGER". THEY DID GOOD SERVICE IN THAT WAR and captured several ships off the coast of CUBA, which was used for funding by our GOVERNMENT TO PAY " hazardous duty pay". WE did save some names from here who distinguished themselves on the battlefields of many wars, but many remain who will never be remembered. (Memorial Day was written for them)

COLONEL JAMES T. HATFIELD organized a BATTALION here in HOBOKEN, with help from a newly commissioned CAPTAIN HART, and PATRICK J. MEEHAN went through all of the barrooms and found the "GAELS" from IRELAND who signed up! (HART WAS injured AT GETTYSBURG…) GOVERNOR WARD (the Governor of New Jersey at that time) came to visit HOBOKEN and was so impressed with the volunteers here that the state of New Jersey furnished the new COMPANY now called BATTALION NUMBER ONE with UNIFORMS. Captain Hart was now MAJOR HART…and the FIRST BATTALION BECAME A WELL DRILLED, WELL UNIFORMED BODY OF MEN AND A CREDIT TO OUR CITY AND STATE. THEY WERE honored by PRESIDENT GARFIELD, and GENERAL SHERMAN and practiced for the local parades in ELYSIAN FIELDS (PARK)…LATER ALL BATTALIONS HERE BECAME THE NINTH REGIMENT… IN 1892, THE SECOND REGIMENT WAS FORMED…UNDER COLONEL STEVENS…his brother was the paymaster who later lost his life and a plaque was put up on the CHURCH OF THE HOLY INNOCENCE to honor him. (see "THE LADIES OF CASTLE STEVENS" my first book about HOBOKEN) brother ROBERT (STEVENS)…. Later in history the NINTH REGIMENT WAS FORMED from ALL OVER OUR AREA and NEW YORK. UNDER A GENERAL MICHAEL JACKSON…

A song and poem was written to honor all of the colored soldiers who gave their lives for their country, and those who remained. (enclosed copy)

Sleep on , ye fallen heroes beneath the watchful beams of a sentinel moon, that paces her silent beat above you

 no alarms from rattling fire from startled picket lines can reach your ears nor break your rest…

no cannon fire, nor musket charge can enter thy sanctuary… age after age will ripen human progress until ye shall be awakened by the final trumpet blow of resurrection ordered by the Great Commander of Earth and Heaven, and executed upon the standards of the Cross. (TAPS) read over the graves of the seven soldiers killed from Hoboken in the civil war at the first Memorial Day parade on may 30, 1868 general .Edwin Tremaine Grand Army of the Republic   Hoboken.  .Winthrop…Lyon…McPherson…Sedgwick… Wadsworth…Kearny…

Van Houten (Colonel) BUTTERWORTH (Jersey City)                           

                                           FLAG OF SAMOA       Spanish American War  U.S.S. BADGER

17 HOBOKEN SAILORS SERVED and at the end of the war helped design the flag of the country of Samoa, which still flies today with the American Eagle on it, and a pen, the symbol of education of the natives and the colonization of Samoa for America. Samoa is now  independent but uses the same flag, and is still known as American Samoa. This flag and country were heavily influenced by our own Hoboken seventeen sailors, as OUR navy dedicated our history to the Island's schoolchildren. It's capital is PAGO PAGO, and the Palm Trees, Coconuts, sandy beaches and Polynesian music and customs still beckon the tourist trade. Additionally, overlooking Apia's harbor on top of Mt. Vaea, rests the tomb of Robert Louis Stevenson His island home there is now a museum, and self composed Epitaph is immortalized by scholars of today. It reads, "Under the wide and starry sky, dig my grave and  let me lie, glad did I live and gladly die, and I laid me down with a will, This be the verse you grave for me, Here he lies where he longed to be, home is the sailor home from the sea, and the hunter home from the hill". The view of the island from his "tomb" is breathless.

World War One The horrors, atrocities and casualties of World War One fill volumes, websites and archives. Tree to tree, trench to trench machine gun placements, mines and mustard gas resulted in thousands of fields of white crosses, and monuments in many nations. Our Hoboken was no exception. We gave! as many left for war from our downtown Hoboken piers, under General Pershing, "Heaven, Hell or Hoboken by Christmas", Pershing, as could load the ships. General Pershing was the first to use tanks in warfare and many were shipped from our Hoboken piers. "Lest we forget" became a popular slogan that was and always will be reminiscent of World War I. It stunned the world with it's horrors of war and many chose to disremember it, even to this day. The Red Field Poppy became a remembrance flower, and is used today as a memento of those who gave their all, for us! A doctor, John MCRae, after tending the wounded on a field in Flanders France, for seventeen days, and burying one of his former medical students in front of his own tent for lack of any one else available to do it, sat on the back of an ambulance, in anguish, and composed a poem. A young soldier, delivering mail that day watched him write it , and when McCrae tossed the poem away, retrieved it, and sent to newspapers in England, where it was published in December of 1915. Why Poppies? Poppies only grow in soil that has been dug up (burials covered whole fronts of dug up earth in World War I) AND THEY COVERED THE LANDSCAPE OF THE WAR DEAD THAT YEAR LIKE NEVER BEFORE SEEN IN THE HISTORY OF EUROPE. In Flanders Fields the poppies grow, between the crosses row on row that mark our place, and in the sky, the larks, still bravely singing, fly scarce heard amid the guns below. We are the dead short days ago, we lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow loved and were loved and now we lie, in FLANDERS FIELDS. Take up our quarrel with the foe; to you from failing hands we throw the torch, be yours to hold on high, if ye break faith with us who die, we shall  not sleep, though poppies grow…in Flanders Fields       Dr. John McCrae Spring 1915                

 WORLD WAR TWO October 6, 1944 October 20, 1944 * Twenty eight sailing vessels, composed of the 328th Medical Battalion, and including the 103rd Infantry, under General Brooks left the Hoboken Piers for Marsielles, France to assist in WORLD WAR 2. The MORMACMOON, a freighter, was the only ship that was not full of troops, and "carried no passengers, only medical equipment and gear.'' The lead ships were the Monticello and the Santa Maria, which traveled at 9 Knots, a speed that seemed very slow to the soldiers and medical personnel on board. According to Medic, Robert Bowers, of the 328th Medical Battalion, less than a day out to sea the entire fleet hit a vicious storm and most of the men were violently seasick, and "weak as cats!" They were only allowed, in shifts, topside, on deck for an hour, and when they, after fifteen days, arrived in Marseilles, France, they "pitched pup tents in the pouring rain!". One of the men hung up a tent sign "Welcome to sunny France." The 328th Considered themselves "lucky", because their traveling companions the 103rd Infantry had to climb a "mountain of mud" before they pitched their tents.

The troops consoled themselves during the storm with the idea that German subs could not possibly launch torpedoes in such a storm, and that the enemy Air Force was most likely grounded. These bravest of the brave were therefore "glad to be seasick for Uncle" and began the habit of cheering every time one of their own puked. Robert Bowers Journal Medic 328th Medical Bttn. Those who returned faced the beginning of the industrial revolution here. Elysian Fields and the famous fountains, clover seed companies farming and war had given way to speakeasies, sleazy hotels and rotting ships. Prohibition added to the mix, and by the 1930's our town was in the heart of an industrial revolution. Factories, warehouses, piecework, new inventions and new upcoming companies employed thousands. Lipton Tea, Standard Brands, Maxwell House Coffee, Keuffel and Esser, Bell, Western Electric, all had their day and eventually moved on to less or more greener pastures. Many relocated overseas as wages were less. A new revolution was coming in the shadow of New York City The office paper trail and a place to live in proximity of it, resulted in a new and changed Hoboken. Roosevelt said, "A chicken in every pot, and a car in every garage." Everybody worked in factories, and factories were becoming no more. Offices and housing for paper and pencil pushers took their places with the advent of the computer and the business markets. This Hoboken continues to replace the old…

Hoboken's shields and great seal. Three original plows, (Hoboken farmers idea-pre War)  were changed into three piers, to the right of the piers is a Pirate ship at rest in the Hudson, (Kidd) posed appropriately in front of Steven's Loch. Bottom center is a steam paddleboat pointed toward the piers as a symbol of the then "new" industrial Hoboken, also depicted by the smokestack (Maxwell House) at the right. Pleasure crafts ride the waves of the Hudson, as today, as tenements, brownstones and multi storied buildings overlook the mighty Hudson, under, of course the view of the Palisades. There are still trees, green space and park land in between, which has been expanded by our last several administrations .Seals, including our State seal were modified in 1928, the female figures on the State Seal looked away from the shield in order to welcome our troops home from the wars, that was also changed by "State Resolution Eight" and the ladies, Liberty and Ceres, now look to the center of our state .Nineteen Twenty Eight was the first year 1776 appeared on our statehood seals and flags, but was first written in Arabic. Ceres holds a Cornucopia depicting the great harvest of New Jersey farmers, and Liberty stands guard for our citizens. Atop, in the crest above the Helmet that protects our "Liberty" is George Washington's horse. Find our state flag and check it out. Our seal was lost to time and antiquity until I found it in the dusty archives of the Hoboken Public Library and brought it to the attention of our Mayor Tom Vezzetti. Attempts were made to redesign it by local artists, and it was decided to leave it as it is, as it is and always will be part and parcel of our Hoboken History. Our present Mayor, became enamored of the city seal and had it blown up and placed in his office. It is impressive as one enters the Mayor's office, and gives the impression of the grandeur, past and present of our HOBOKEN.

 HOBOKEN AND VIETNAM A SAD CHAPTER IN HOBOKEN HISTORY

During the sixties and seventies many young men and women would leave their mothers and Hoboken homes to serve in the branches of the Military. It was a tumultuous time, and yellow ribbons abounded throughout the whole town, counted most as Jesse Jackson reminded the world, in the poor and low income working neighborhoods. There were few dissenters, as patriotism sent the sons and daughters of factory workers, and day and night laborers, to "free Vietnam". Many left, few returned without some serious wound or sad story. Some became victims of later alcohol or drug abuse, which was rampant. The "so what" attitude that seemed not present and accounted for at the beginning of the undeclared conflict escalated into a national disgrace, over time for the heroes who returned Some never did, and those families will perhaps, sadly, and not so sadly, never know their stories of suffering.

Hoboken had nine sons, who will not be forgotten. A monument in Frank Sinatra Park now stands in black marble with the names of the Hoboken Nine where various Veteran's